The most interesting things about Gulmarg Kashmir - Tourism
Gulmarg was originally
called 'Gaurimarg' (Gauri, the Fair One, is another name for Parvati). It was
renamed Gulmarg, meaning meadow of flowers, by Sultan Yusuf Shah in the 16th
century. As the name suggests, Gulmarg is characterized by Rolling Meadows
emblazoned with wild flowers through spring and summer; while thick,
powder-fine snow covers it in winters. Located 56 kms southwest of Srinagar,
Gulmarg was a favourite haunt of the Mughal emperor, Jahangir, who came here to
collect plants for his gardens.
Gulmarg - Kashmir |
In the 19th century,
British civil servants and soldiers began frequenting it to escape the summer
heat of the plains of north India, to hunt and to play golf on its open meadows.
By the early 20th century Gulmarg had three golf courses, including one
exclusively for women!
In summers, the almost
two-hours' drive from Srinagar to Gulmarg takes one through fields of maize and
rice, gently rising towards the lower slopes of the Pir Panjal range. From
Tangmarg the 12-km uphill drive to Gulmarg is through forests of pine and firs.
In winter, the entire area up from Tangmarg is covered with snow and looks
spectacular.
Located at an altitude
of 2,730 m the cup-shaped valley of Gulmarg is 3 sq kms in area, enclosed by
forested tracts of tall green pines close at hand and the high snow-capped
peaks beyond. The view of the vast, open meadows is unobstructed, except for a
few hotels and army quarters, as construction is otherwise barred in the quaint
hill-station. Instead, the greens are dotted with small lakes and enclosed
parks. Tranquil and serene, the dream-like quietude in the valley is broken
only by the occasional tinkle of cowbells or neighing of horses.
Interestingly, Gulmarg
does not have any permanent residents. Those staying in Gulmarg are either
tourists or those catering to the tourism industry here.
One must plan a
relaxed stay in Gulmarg to witness all its charm. Summers allow for several
outdoor activities — trekking on foot or on horses, mountain biking, trout
fishing, golfing and water skiing. Gulmarg is an excellent base for treks in
the northern Pir Panjal Ranges. Many treks are designed to suit all abilities,
and meander through the meadows and along hill trails, providing stunning views
of the valley. One could trek to Khilanmarg (6 kms) or further up to the peak
of Apharwat. On a clear day, the Nanga Parbat peak can be seen from several viewpoints.
One could also trek south to the Ferozepur Nala and further L, the hamlets of
Danwas, Tejjan, and to Samaidan. There are no fixed rates for hiring horses; so
remember to bargain well.
Gulmarg boasts of the
world's highest golf course, situated at an altitude of 2,650 m. Built in 1911
by the British, this is the only one of the three golf courses that remains
today. The first golf championship in India was played in Gulmarg in 1922. The
sprawling 18-hole golf course is maintained by the State Tourism Department and
welcomes temporary members on daily-payment basis.
A limited amount of
golfing equipment is available for hire. The golf clubhouse, standing amidst
the greens, has a quaintly sloping roof reminiscent of a Swiss chalet. St
Mary's Anglican Church, also in the middle of the golf course, stands to this
day as a reminder of Gulmarg's British lineage.
St Mary's Anglican Church - Gulmarg |
A big tourist
attraction is the newly-inaugurated 'Gondola' cable car on the slopes of the
majestic Mt Apharwat (4,200 m). Built in collaboration with the acclaimed
French cable car company, Pomoglaski, it is the world’s highest and Asia's
longest rope way. Open all year round, the two-stage rope way, covers a total
distance of 5 kms, and ferries about 600 people an hour. The first phase of the
Gondola, inaugurated in 1998, takes about nine minutes to ascend the 400 m to
Kongdori station, while the second phase, inaugurated in 2005, ascends to a
dizzying 4,267 m!
Disembarking at the
highest point, the grandeur of the view from the cable car suddenly gives way
to a carnivalesque setting with nearly everyone being noisily excited at the
sight of snow. There are several activities from snow scooters to tobogganing
(riding on hand-pulled sledges) and ski rides. While snowfall occurs till
April, snow stays on the highest point till about July-end. The view of the
Himalayas is breathtaking. A sign board can be seen indicating the end of
Indian civilian area; only few kilometers beyond is Pakistani territory.
While in summers the
verdant beauty of Gulmarg with its flowery meadows and pastoral scenes charms
the visitor, the thick snow-cover from November to March makes Gulmarg a most
sought-after winter destination. Blanketed in white, the valley looks pristine.
In the chilling cold weather, hotels here extend warm hospitality, with hot
cups of kahwa and crackling wood-fire burning in stone fireplaces.
There is enough and
more for a visitor to do in winters: sit back and enjoy the stunning views,
play in the soft snow or partake of the various winter-sport activities
offered. Gulmarg has been called the 'heartland of winter sports in India' by
CNN. In January 1998, the first National Winter Games of India were held here.
Thereafter, Gulmarg has hosted the event twice, in 2004 and 2008.
A generous snowfall in
winters covers the mountain with fine, deep-powder snow turning Gulmarg into
India's finest ski resort. Mt. Apharwat boasts of one of the longest and
highest ski slopes in Asia. 'A big, wide, whale-backed mountain...with a dozen
or so ridges coming off the front face at right angles, like the teeth of a
comb', the peak has varied ski runs to suit all levels of experience, from
beginners to professionals. One can choose to ski down any of the ridges or
drop into one of the bowls between them. There are three ski-lifts to take
skiers up the mountain from where, in the peak-season, they can glide all the
way down to Tangmarg! The Gondola cable car takes one to a downhill ski run of
5.2 kms, from a height of 4267.2 m.
A European travel
writer points out, 'that with such pristine conditions it attracts all types —
the passionate, professionals, unskilled and the scared.' Skiing on the slopes
of Gulmarg is a big attraction because, compared to other major ski resorts,
especially the Alpine resorts, the crowds here are far fewer and the rates
ridiculously low. Ski race events are also held in Gulmarg which see
participation from across the world.
The skiing season
extends from 15 December to 15 April. Basic equipment is
available on hire, while trained instructors are available for various levels
of training. The Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering in Gulmarg
conducts professional courses in skiing, apart from organizing various other
kinds of adventure activities.
Heli-skiing has
recently been launched in Gulmarg by the J&K Government. It is the
ultimate, free-riding experience where helicopters are used instead of
ski-lifts. The helicopter ride up the mountain, apart from being an experience
in itself, gives skiers access to virgin turfs that are otherwise
out-of-bounds.
Given its stunning
beauty, it is no surprise that the vales of Gulmarg have been a favourite with
Bollywood directors. The famous song from the 1973 Rishi Kapoor-Dimple Kapadia
starrer Bobby, 'Hum tum ek kamre main band hon', was shot in Gulmarg, in
Highlands Park Hotel. Another popular song associated with Gulmarg is 'Jai Jai
Shiv Shankar' from Aap ki Kasam starring Rajesh Khanna and Mumtaz. Locals are
sure to point out the small Shiva temple on a hillock, in the middle of the
valley, where this song was shot. Originally the temple of the Dogra kings of
Jammu and Kashmir, it is known as the Maharani Temple or Mohineshwar Shivalaya.
Interestingly, this conical, single-celled shrine can be seen from all parts of
Gulmarg!
The annual, three-day
Gulmarg Winter Festival, held in March, brings together music, film,
photography and adventure on one common platform. Showcasing upcoming artists
it holds events against the breathtaking setting of snow-peaks and is a great
crowd-puller.
Tangmarg
Tangmarg |
Situated about 12 kms
downhill from Gulmarg, Tangmarg is where, until only 50 years ago, the
motorable road to Gulmarg ended. From here, tourists were required to trek up,
thus developing Tangmarg as a town. Today, it has many restaurants, bakeries
and shops, and tourists often stop here for a meal or to pick up Kashmiri
handicrafts.
Ziarat of Baba Reshi
Ziarat of Baba Reshi |
This Muslim shrine on
the slopes below Gulmarg is a 5-km detour on the road between Gulmarg and Tangmarg,
and can be approached from either place. The 15th century shrine is dedicated
to a Muslim scholar and saint, Baba Reshi, and is visited by thousands of
devotees every year.
Ferozpur Nallah
Ferozpur Nallah |
Reached from the
Tangmarg road, this mountain stream meets the Bahan River at a popular picnic
spot known as 'waters meet'. It is about 5 kms down the valley from Gulmarg,
and is known for trout fishing.
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