Travel Information about Dakshinkali Temple Kathmandu Nepal

 

18 km (11 mi) south of Kathmandu 

The only time to visit this bloodbath of a temple is Tuesday or Satur-day morning, well before noon, preferably around 9 AM. Dedicated to Kali, the goddess of destruction, this is where Hindus come to slaughter male animals as offerings to the deity. The eerie setting, in the woods on the southern side of the valley, at the confluence of two rivers, makes the events all the more ominous to first-time viewers.

The temple was built 300 years ago by a Malla king whose people were dying from a cholera epidemic. In a dream, Kali told him to build a temple for her in Dakshin, south of his kingdom, and then to sacrifice 108 buffalo. The king obeyed Kali's command, and the epidemic ended. 

Follow the lane from the hillside parking area, past stalls selling Nepali fast food, including khuwa (sweet milk-and-cheese curd served on a large leaf); vendors pushing handicrafts and garlands; and, no doubt, at least one praying Shivite sadhu in an orange dhoti (a cloth garment worn like a sarong and drawn up between the legs), his face smeared with ash. Go under an arch, and take the steps leading down to a bridge that crosses over a stream. From here, you see Hindus queued up for the temple, plus numerous others bathing, picnicking, and washing their animals by the stream. If you have ever been to a Hindu movie and witnessed locals push to get in, you will be surprised at the sight of the lines at Dakshin Kali. The people are very quiet and subdued, as thousands reverently wait in a relatively hushed silence for their turn. 

The temple is designed as a female tantric triangle, point aimed at the ground. Lion figures, vehicles of the goddess, guard the temple. A Bhairov idol stands under the canopy. On the side wall is a Ganesh idol. On the left side of the main temple entrance is the idol Dakshin Kali, with eight arms, lifting her body onto Shiva, who lies motionless.

The priest, nearly hidden, sits inside the inner sanctum and sprinkles holy water on each animal as it is presented to him. The barefoot temple butcher, with his trousers rolled up and covered in blood, grabs the squawking animals, usually roosters, walks over to the images of Kali and Shiva on the side wall, and very efficiently lops off their heads. Blood drenches the statue red. The butcher hands the headless creature to its owner and sometimes dabs a speck of its blood onto his own forehead, sanctifying himself. Look up at the surrounding pigeons who usually hang about the area; invariably there is at least one white one that has turned pinkish-red from the squirting blood. 

Non-Hindus are allowed to stand back to the side and observe. Usually there are a few who push forward with their cameras, trying to take the blood thirstiest, goriest shot. Try to remember this is a religious event, not a carnival. 

In the midst of the ruckus and huge crowds, holy men sit under a covered pavilion reading aloud from Holy Scriptures. On the staircase back up to the exit, beggars line the path. Some street children from Kathmandu commute the 18 km (11 mi) to this site twice a week for the alms—proof that begging is a full-time job for many children. 

Lodging

Dakshinkali Club Resort - Just up the road, 4 km (2'A mi) from the temple (and the last kilometer is on a rough-and-tumble road), this much-advertised hotel is situated in a horseshoe-shape area of forested hills. The gardens are well tended, and the air is much fresher than in the city, but there isn't much to do here. The rooms are basic, with twin beds and Formica furniture. Bathrooms have showers but not tubs. 

For more information on Dakshin Kali temple Kathmandu Nepal and Nepal tour packages contact Swan Tours, one of the leading travel agents in Delhi.